![]() ![]() ![]() Ramp the wire speed up slowly from low feed speed to higher feed speeds just until you have a good close wire buzz at the puddle and you have a good fluid puddle control. Use the highest amperage setting you can comfortably use without melting holes in your work. Insure everything is operating smoothly as above mentioned BEFORE you start. Follow the pointers above for grounding the well powered machine to your work. (Mash the air out before sealing it) Setting the machine requires setting the amperage you intend to use on brightly clean materials less than 3/16" thick. Keep the wire stored in a clean dry place when not is use with gell packs sealed in a purged zip lock bag. Don't use rusty wire! You'll plug up your liner and tip with rust. Keep the roller "V" grooves clean and use a wire wiper to wipe residue from the wire. Look through the hole in the empty tip pointed at a light source and see how it's shaped. Ditto for the welding tip, they tend to wear in "V" egg shaped notches and pinch the wire or not get good connection on the sides of the wire. If not, flush the liner with compressed air or if needed replace it. To check the wire is feeding smoothly, unhook the wire feed rollers in the machine, you should be able to hand pull the wire easily through the tip and liner. Don't "KINK" the welding lead liner by "pulling the machine around with it". Don't hold the tip any closer than 1/2" from the work. Poke it out with the wire religeously for a smooth feed. The tip will stop up with very fine "BB's" while welding and hang up the wire. The wire must feed through the wire gun liner and tip easily and smoothly. A good rule of thumb for wire feeders you should know. You'll get a much better ground and the machine will run much more powerfully and smoother. Use "Never Seize" dressing on your connections to keep them in good electrical shape. If you can, bolt your ground to a piece of cleaned scrap metal and lightly tack it to your work piece. A "tacked" ground connection is like a soldered wire connection, there is nothing better. Ground to the part being welded if at all possible. Clean the grounding area to bright metal and make sure your ground clamp connection tips are brightly clean as well. ![]() MIG is heavily dependant on a good ground connection to the part being welded. Use very heavy duty plugs and connectors. Extension cords, if used, should be as short as possible and of a larger wire size guage than the input cord of the machine to cut down on any electrical resistance. The bottom line is they all MUST have extreemly good 115 VOLT dedicated circuits to power them. Some can be configured to handle as much as a 20 AMP input! Lincoln's are this way. They will state the nominal input voltage and amperage current draw and the nominal output voltage and amperage output relative to such. Most of those "115 volt" wire machines have INPUT voltage stickers on them somewhere. Has anyone else had any luck with this unit? Patrick in Houston Do I need to pre-heat the metal before doing this, or is this just a POS that is better suited as a boat anchor? I’ve seen the same type 110v welders from Miller and Lincoln, but are they any better? I’d hate to think I’ve spent 450 bucks for nothing. All I’m trying to do is soundly weld two thin pieces of sheet metal together. So far I can’t get this unit to do squat. This is a Campbell-Hausfeld unit Model WG3000, Wire Feed Arc Welder. And I’ve tried both polarity settings as well. The wire just sputters on the surface and leaves round beads of material. After going to that added expense, the result is not any better whatsoever. Since I was using the reel of free flux wire, I decided that what I needed was a small bottle of 75/25 gas and solid wire. Right off the bat, I couldn’t produce a bead to save my life, regardless of wire speed and/or temp setting. Since I no longer have access to one of these machines, I went down to Lowes and purchased one of those little 115 volt mig welders. Most of the welding machines I've used were professional 220V type such as Miller. Let me first say that I can weld using stick and mig, as well as braze…though none of it certifiable. First my apologies for posting a dumb, newbie question. ![]()
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